In the late summer of 2021, during the second year of the COVID-19 pandemic, international travel remained restricted, prompting me to embark on two walks in northern England. The first, Lady Anne's Way, spanned 100 miles from Skipton in Yorkshire to Penrith in Cumbria, encompassing Yorkshire dales, moorlands, farm fields, cow and sheep pastures, and picturesque English villages, as well as castle ruins once belonging to the estate of Lady Anne Clifford (1590-1676). Typically taking 6 to 9 days to complete, I followed the 6-day itinerary which averaged approximately 16 miles a day with the last day being 20 miles. While the trails were not overly steep or challenging, the elevation varied, with a daily average gain and loss of 500-600 meters, save for the almost entirely flat final day. Though trail finding posed a challenge at times, the unique charm and serenity of the English countryside made the journey worthwhile. The walk passed through part of Yorkshire dales, which has connections to the fictional vet James Herriot of "All Creatures Great and Small." The recent revival of the series generated a lot of interest and publicity for villages like Grassington, Askrigg, and Howes. Watching the show after the walk further piqued my interest in the story of James Herriot, and the Yorkshire dales served as a backdrop for the series, with its unique beauty always reminding me of my walk.
Despite the drama caused by the train delay, I arrived at my B&B in Skipton in the early afternoon, eager to explore the charming town. However, as I meandered through the streets, I couldn't help but notice a palpable sense of quietness. The once-thriving tourism industry was suffering from the pandemic's effects and severe staff shortages, with many shops closed permanently. Even the overcast sky of the late summer afternoon seemed to mirror the muted mood of the town. But as I sat in a cozy pub, savoring a pint and observing local families enjoying their Sunday afternoon, I reminded myself that there was still joy to be found amidst the tranquillity. Seeking something different to eat, I stumbled upon a Turkish restaurant, and the delicious flavors and aromas of the cuisine offered a delightful departure from the traditional pub fare.
Day 1:
The next morning, fueled by breakfast, I began my journey. After leaving the city's outskirts, I climbed to a high vantage point and was greeted by a panoramic view of the city. Rowhouses made of dark brown stones lined the city street, and I pondered whether they were worker's cottages from Skipton's industrial past. A quick search on Wikipedia confirmed that it was indeed a mill town in the 19th century. The first leg of my journey took me through farmhouses and fields, and I eventually arrived at a patch of wild moorland adorned with beautiful purple flowers before reaching a road.
After a short 15-minute walk, I arrived at the remains of Barden Towers, a 16th-century manor house that once belonged to Lady Anne. The sun was shining, and I enjoyed a delightful lunch at a picnic table on the house's grounds. Continuing on, I crossed an old stone bridge that bore the same name, and the riverbanks were decorated with boulders of varying sizes. Children were playing in the river, and a few adults were fishing. Witnessing people enjoying the fresh air in such a carefree manner stirred a sense of hope for a return to normalcy within me. After a pleasant walk along the river Wharfe, I eventually separated from it and began my ascent to higher ground. I arrived in Grassington around 4 pm.
I didn't take many photos to help me remember the highlights of my first day, but the lush green pastures dotted with fluffy sheep and the charming village of Grassington left a lasting impression. The village is now a popular destination, thanks to its role as the new Darrowby in "All Creatures Great and Small," and it was bustling with visitors. The pubs and hotels were all teeming with guests.
Day 2:
After a blissful night's slumber, I embarked on the second day's journey to Buckden village. The morning was foggy, and the temperature was cold for a late summer day. Although the Dale's Way also traversed through Grassington, it remained in the valley, whereas Lady Anne's Way ascended to the apex of the moor, providing a breathtaking view of the countryside. The landscape was dotted with green farmlands divided by drystone walls, with farmhouses and country cottages scattered around in the mist, forming a charming scene.
As I trekked towards the top of the moor, the deluge of cold rain lashed my face with forceful winds. It was as if I had been transported to the desolate setting of Wuthering Heights. I only encountered three other hikers on the moor, one of whom was also walking Lady Anne's Way. Despite our similar six-day schedules, our respective lodging arrangements differed, and we parted ways. But a week later, I stumbled upon him at a campground outside Coniston in the Lake District, an astounding coincidence that left me wondering, "What are the odds of this?"
After descending from the moor, I arrived in the quaint village of Kettlewell where I found the churchyard to be the perfect location for a leisurely lunch. The rest of the journey was an easy stroll through the typical dales countryside, characterized by dry stone walls dividing the verdant pastures peppered with white sheep and brown cows. Buckden, a minute village, was followed by the farm of Hubberholme, one mile away, which boasted the George Inn pub. The renowned playwright J.B. Priestley was buried in the village church, though his tomb was unmarked. During my stay, I lodged at the pleasant Buck Inn pub where I found the towel heater to be a useful amenity, even in the late August. The majority of the pub's guests were walkers, including two couples hiking the Lady Anne and a few others traversing the Dales' way.
Day 3:
On the morning of the third day, I departed from the Buck Inn and climbed straight onto the top of a dale. After about an hour, I descended from the hill and crossed the valley, eventually reaching Stake Moss moor, where I encountered no other walkers. The howling wind made it feel more like late autumn than summer.
Eventually, I arrived at the well-preserved medieval building, Napple Hall, which was mostly under renovation. Not long after Napple Hall was the village of Askrigg, which became famous as the setting of the original BBC series, "All Creatures Great and Small". I stopped at a coffee house for a break, but the social distancing rules, even in a small village, were enforced, with only one person allowed in at a time. I have a memory of arriving at Hawes late, but in reality, I must have gotten to my B&B, the Herriot House, around 4 pm. After a quick shower, I strolled into the village center, which had three pubs and a few take-away places on the main street. Unfortunately, the pubs were all booked, which was a common feature of travel with COVID restrictions. Social distancing and a shortage of staff made it challenging to find a table at the restaurants. Despite this, I continued to wander up and down the 200-meter-long main street until I stumbled upon a strange doorway with a menu board. Upon entering, a narrow stairway led me to a canteen with long tables and benches, just like a school canteen. The place was packed with diners, and I thoroughly enjoyed my chicken tikka and a pint of ale. The trip left me with mixed emotions due to the background of the COVID pandemic, both melancholic and exciting at the same time.
Day 4:
The trail from Hawes meandered through several farm fields and pastures, at times making navigation difficult. After a while, I arrived at Cotter's End, a large hill that required a bit of a climb. Once at the top, I found the “high dyke” that offered a levelled walk with breathtaking views of the surrounding dales. The mountainside was adorned with a blanket of golden wildflowers, which shimmered brilliantly in the sunlight. As I continued my trek, the magnificent viaduct of the Trans-Pennine railway came into view, adding to the already stunning landscape. Surprisingly, I encountered no other walkers until I reached the end of the “high dyke” marked by a statue called "Water Cut".
The trail from the statue led down to the valley floor, where I discovered an enchanting ruin: Pendragon Castle. Though some doubted its connection to King Arthur's father, the castle was a 12th-century relic that had once belonged to Lady Anne's family. Perched atop a small hill, an old oak tree stood guard in front of the castle, while a low stone wall surrounded the grounds. Wildflowers in shades of purple and pink adorned the walls, and although the castle grounds were closed to tourists, the area was home to a charming flock of sheep. The castle ruin and green fields and picturesque hills beyond would have inspired 19th-century romantic paintings and poetry.
After leaving Pendragon Castle, I found myself lost in a farm field as I struggled to locate the gate that was supposed to be on the opposite side. I deliberated for a few minutes before ultimately deciding against climbing over the wall. Instead, I walked down to a nearby house by a lane and followed the road into the village of Nateby. From there, it was a straightforward journey to Kirby Stevens. During a previous visit to the city in 2011 while on the Coast-to-Coast walk, I was left of the memories of the old narrow alleys used by farmers to drive their livestock into the town on market days. It was still there. The church also looked much the same, except for the addition of ubiquitous hand sanitizer by the entrance. My B&B, located in a well-maintained Georgian building, was exceptionally clean and welcoming. The friendly hostess informed me that walkers began returning in the summer of 2021 after a challenging year for the hospitality and tourism industries during the COVID-19 pandemic. While I appreciated the quiet streets, excitement of living through a historic event, and fewer social interactions that suited non-sociable personality like mine, I was pleased to witness the country's reopening and people returning to a sense of "normalcy".
Day 5 and 6:
After passing Kirby Stevens, the Lady Anne's Way departs from the Yorkshire Dales and enters the Eden River Valley, which is characterized by flat farmlands. Approximately two hours north of Kirby Stevens, lies Brough Castle, another ruin of Lady Anne's Castle. A noteworthy site on the route is St. James' Church at Great Ormside, where some of the best examples of medieval metalwork in England have been discovered in the churchyard. The village of Appleby, where Lady Anne's mother is buried in the church, is also of interest due to the presence of a castle and St. Anne's Hospital, an elm house established by Anne Clifford which still provides housing for older women after 400 years. The hospital was well-maintained, and I was offered a free tour by a resident old lady. The village of Appleby hosts an annual horse trade show in May, which is the highlight of the year. However, as there was no available accommodation in Appleby, I stayed in Penrith for the night.
The next morning, I returned to Appleby for the final 20-mile stretch of the Lady Anne's Walk. The good news was that the terrain was flat as a pancake. The bad news was that it was also filled with cows. Now, I don't know about you, but the idea of crossing fields full of these big, curious beasts made me feel a little uneasy. I mean, I'd had a close encounter with two young bulls the day before, and let's just say it wasn't my idea of a good time. To avoid a repeat performance, I decided to stick to the road, even if it meant dodging traffic. As I arrived in Penrith, my first stop was at M&S to buy some bin bags for my boots. As I strolled around town, I couldn't help but notice that the buildings were constructed from a rather gloomy-looking dark brown stone. I'm not sure if it was just me, but they seemed to be covered in years of soot and car exhaust, which didn't exactly give me a warm, fuzzy feeling. But hey, maybe it was just my overactive imagination.
Just outside the city, 30 minutes away, is Brougham Castle, which is the largest of all Lady Anne's castle ruins. The castle is located in an idyllic setting by the river Lowther, and on a sunny day, like the day I visited, the grounds provided a perfect place for a stroll and a picnic. From the top of the keep, I enjoyed a beautiful view of the Cumbria countryside. This was a fitting end to the Lady Anne's Walk.
A final note, my trip was arranged by Mickledore whom I used for many other walks in UK. I was always happy with their service.